Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet Review

This review is for the Half Dome climbing helmet made by Black Diamond. I picked this thing up for about $60 at my local REI after reading an article about the importance of climbing helmets. My intention was to use it for mostly alpine ascents as well as some sport climbing and maybe ice climbing in the future. So far I have used it on two ascents of Rainier and an ascent of Shasta. I have found that it is a lightweight, comfortable, and durable helmet that will work well for any type of climbing.

My favorite thing about this helmet is how light it is for the price. I'm generally a pretty weight conscious packer so I was pleased. Another time saving feature is the wheel-operated headband adjuster. It allows you to adjust the size of your helmet with only one hand. I found it to be faster and more precise than any other system I have used. There is ample padding inside the helmet so it didn't really get uncomfortable even after hours of climbing, and the large vent holes allow your head to breathe.

One thing that I dislike about this helmet are the headlamp clips. It was very difficult to get my headlamp straps to fit in the clips and once they were in, they didn't stay in. I just put my headlamp over my helmet without the clips. It seemed to hold but I wish I had the added protection. Another gripe I had was that the chin strap was a bit hard to operate with gloves on.

Besides a few minor issues, I am pleased with this helmet. If you want a cheap, simple, and reliable helmet you can't beat the Half Dome. If you climb one, I recommend you buy one, it could save your life!

Specs/info:
  • Price: $59.95 (US)
  • Weight: 10.25 oz
  • Hard plastic shell with molded foam inside
  • Many large vents and headband clips
  • Wheel-operated size adjuster












































Monday, September 9, 2013

Yates Expedition Picket Review


This review is for the expedition style snow picket made by Yates. I bought this thing for 30 bucks at Feathered Friends (my local gear shop in Seattle). Originally I was planning on buying an MSR snow picket but they were all out and the Yates was all they had left. I am really happy with it and even though it's a bit more expensive than comparable products from SMC or MSR, I think it's definitely worth the extra money. Overall a light, durable, and well manufactured piece of equipment.

I have used this picket on two ascents of Mt. Rainier. Luckily, I haven't had to use it in a crevasse rescue situation yet, but I have practiced building anchors with it and we did use it for a running belay. The picket holds firm when placed properly and seems bomber when buried in a deadman configuration. It is unique in the fact that it is a V-shape, while most competitors use an I shape. My friends have I shaped pickets and messing around with them it didn't seem that either shape had an inherently better hold. The biggest factor is how well the anchor is placed and the snow conditions.

One advantage that you get with the Yates is the reinforced steel strike plate on the end. This plate is dope because you can hammer your picket with an ice axe without damaging it. The plate absorbs much of the impact and prevents scratching on the aluminum body. The body has many holes which is nice because you have more options for clipping your gear into and it reduces weight. The other end is fairly well pointed so penetrating firm snow or ice is no problem.

The foremost function of a picket is to make an anchor that can hold one or more humans in the event of a fall. I think any picket on the market will do just that. The only reason I recommend the Yates over others is because of the extra features and the fact that it's a few ounces lighter. Plus the factory red color scheme will stand out from the sea of boring silver pickets.

Here is some technical info:
  • Price: $30.00 (US)
  • Length: 22 inches
  • Weight: 12 oz
  • V-shaped aluminum body
  • Stainless steel strike plate 

First Post

Hello friends! Thank's for checking out my blog. I'm new to the concept of 'blogging' so bear with me as I get this setup and I'll reward you with some dope content. I got the idea to start a blog from my buddy Steven. He is currently travelling in South America and regularly posts about his awesome adventures. (You can check out his blog at http://stevenhweier.wordpress.com/) While reading it, I realized that I also travel and climb a bunch and there might be people out there who are interested in my adventures. So far I have spent some time messing around with the theme and now I will work on getting some content out there. I will mainly be posting trip reports and photos of my climbs. I also want to post reviews of all my gear so people who are interested in the sport can know what to buy. Other than that, expect to see travel posts and some random stuff about college life. Enjoy!